Laura-Jane Adventures

24 hours in the gateway to the South!

My first time in Naples didn’t allow me to fully get a sense for the city. I spent only one day there, having come from Rome and on my way to Amalfi. However, I had planned the itinerary that way, as in all honesty I knew it would be the least favourite part of the trip for my parents… and I was right. They appreciated it, but Naples was a little bit too loud and rough around the edges for them. Nevertheless, it didn’t stop me from appreciating it and, of course, wanting to return!

With that being said, here is where to stay, wander and eat pizza!

Where to stay

Naples’ architectural heritage has been shaped by ancient times: the city’s Greek origins; the Renaissance, which saw Spain rule over the Kingdom of Naples; and, more recently, housing projects like Le Vele (the sails), which was seen as a failure and highlighted social issues within the city. This lengthy and perhaps problematic history has resulted in something I argue is beautifully honest – you don’t know what you will find within the streets and buildings of Naples. That was exactly the case of the hotel we stayed in.

Relais Della Porta is a hotel located on the 3rd floor of a building which dates back to the 16th century, in the heart of Naples. The residence used to belong to an Italian philosopher and scientist by the name of Gianbattista Della Porta.

On arrival, we made it inside the hotel only after accidentally entering the building through the service door. Then, having to take the service elevator up to the 3rd floor, which only worked after figuring out we had to pay to use it and let me tell you it was a bit questionable and rickety. Once we had navigated our way inside, the lovely receptionist greeted us and showed us to our rooms. The rooms had so much character and incredibly high ceilings. In mine was part of the original ceiling, and lying in bed the next morning, I spent time taking it in.

The thing I loved about our hotel was how tucked away it was and not easily accessible. That is what made it authentic, more fun to stay in, and ultimately why I would recommend it!

Where to wander

Getting lost in the streets of Naples is undoubtedly part of visiting the city. The steep and narrow cobbled streets have so many stories to tell, and you get a true sense of the community. The Spanish Quarter (Quartieri Spagnoli) is the most famous neighbourhood of Naples, and where you will find the distinguishable ‘Maradona murales’. A lively homage to Diego Armando Maradona.

Before, during or after a wander through the Spanish Quarter: be sure to grab some Neapolitan street food, like pizza fritta or cuoppo or something sweet like a sfogliatella pastry.

Then I recommend walking to the neighbourhood of San Lorenzo, where you will find the Naples Cathedral. The stunning facade was completed by the architect Errico Alvino in 1905. However, the cathedral has gained attention recently after a French Artist called JR, who, as part of his Chronicle series, covered part of the facade with black and white portraits of 606 Neapolitans. It is a unique display showcasing the people who make the city what it is.

Where to try Neapolitan pizza

I scoured the internet whilst researching for the best pizza spots in Naples, and whilst there are many, the one I finally decided on was Starita. This institution of pizza has been around for over 100 years, featured in the filming of the 1954 film ‘L’oro di Napoli’, and its owner, Antonio Starita, himself helped ensure that Neapolitan pizza was recognised by the EU as a traditional speciality.

It goes without saying that the pizza was delicious, and if you want to try some yourself, make sure to arrive early or be prepared to wait for a table.

There is an Italian saying that states: Vedi Napoli e poi muori. It translates to “See Naples and die” and was made famous by the German writer Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, signifying the beauty of Naples and how nothing else would compare after seeing it. I won’t deny the city’s beauty, and I think that even despite its loud and stony streets, it highlights that beauty is not always obvious or orthodox. This hyperbolic phrase justifies that, and I must say, I do hope to see many more beautiful places – ones that are of clear beauty and those which demand switching your perspective to admire less evident beauty.

Lots of love,

Laura-Jane x